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Thread: Monitor Calibration

  1. I use Spyder 2, it's pretty sweet, atually I should probably run it again cuz I had some issues with my last shot.
    Canon 1D Mark III -- Canon 5D
    L Lens Travel Kit = 70-200 f/2.8L IS · 24-70 f/2.8L · 16-35 f/2.8L
    Non-L Primes = 15mm Fisheye · 50 f/1.4 · 85 f/1.8 · 100mm Macro
    Alienbees lights (6) + Ringlight + Vagabond II
    Nikon SB28 (3) · Nikon SB80DX (1) · Canon 580EX (2) · Pocket Wizards (7)

  2. Doesn't your device tell you when to calibrate? I think mine automatically does every 15 days, and whenever I want otherwise.
    5D, 20D
    50mm f/1.4, 70-200mm f/2.8L IS, 100mm f/2.8 macro, 580EX II, 580 EX, 550 EX

  3. Quote Originally Posted by Ronald S. Jr. View Post
    Doesn't your device tell you when to calibrate? I think mine automatically does every 15 days, and whenever I want otherwise.
    I hate those popups and all those "updates available" messages always poping up. so I always uncheck that option for every program I have. Windows still does that alot though... I can't stand it
    Canon 1D Mark III -- Canon 5D
    L Lens Travel Kit = 70-200 f/2.8L IS · 24-70 f/2.8L · 16-35 f/2.8L
    Non-L Primes = 15mm Fisheye · 50 f/1.4 · 85 f/1.8 · 100mm Macro
    Alienbees lights (6) + Ringlight + Vagabond II
    Nikon SB28 (3) · Nikon SB80DX (1) · Canon 580EX (2) · Pocket Wizards (7)

  4. Quote Originally Posted by TX_Gulf_Coast View Post
    Ron,

    Very valid point. If it works, don't fix it. That said, alot depends upon where you have your prints done and what you expect from your finished product. I don't advocate you change your process if it works, either. Don't get me wrong.

    Fact is thou, color management is a very involved process and the simple addition of a Huey or calibration software /colorimeter alone isn't going to produce consistent results. The point of my post was to make it clear that your monitor has to have the capabilities of being calibrated. Most "consumer" monitors (monitors not intended for photography and graphics) do not have that capability.

    Taking your SyncMaster for example, Odds are excellent that if it's connected via DVI you cannot calibrate it, all you can do is adjust the video LUT. (LUT = Look Up Tables; know ICC/color values.) If it's connected via VGA the odds are better that you can calibrate it, though usually you'll just be able to adjust contrast as well as brightness. Not a true calibration.

    A few LCDs allow actually calibrating the monitor itself, by adjusting an internal LUT. The EZIO monitors support this. But of course, they cost. Fortunately, technology the way it is, LCD's improve daily and I see these issues as a moot point somewhere in the future.

    Even if you can't calibrate the monitor itself, hardware calibrators are still a worthwhile investment. They will adjust the video card LUT, then profile the monitor.
    You know, I hear this all the time -- it's time consuming and expensive and you have to buy the most expensive pro gear and all that stuff. Maybe I've been lucky with my equipment, but I don't have any problem calibrating my monitors, from the cheapie CTX CRT I have on my kids' computer to the cheapie ViewSonic LCD I have on my main machine.

    I've never used a Spyder or other external calibrating device. Here's how I do it:

    I run a baseline print from my Epson R200. High quality, good paper. It doesn't matter what the image is. Then, I set the print under an Ott Lite (daylight balanced) and tweak the monitor settings until it matches the print. Takes all of ten minutes, including running the print.

    Then I upload the image to my pro lab and when I get the print back, I save the Epson profile and then tweak the monitor to match the lab print. Ten more minutes, if that. My lab is pretty close to what I get from the Epson.

    So if I'm printing something from my lab, I use that profile to edit the image, and if I'm just going to run an inkjet print, I use the Epson profile.

    No biggie. I guess it comes down to knowing and trusting your lab.

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